So, now I have a question and I hope very much that someone has sufficient knowledge to answer it. This question does bother me.
If you leave your bicycle on a street, locked with a good chain to something fixed and it got stolen, how insurance classifies it? Simple theft or not? It is not clear from the description.
I am asking because I find a simple theft insurance quite useless, but if stealing locked bicycle is classified as a simple theft, it means I must take it. But then most coverages of simple theft insurances are not sufficient to replace an electric bicycle.
You’re right, I forgot which insane prices eBikes command here.
My insurance covers sports equipment etc. up to 2k (200 deductible).
But I would assume that could be negotiated and increased if needed.
Quote: Velos, E-Bikes und Sportgeräte
Versichert sind z.B. Mofas, Skis oder Snowboards wenn diese beschädigt oder gestohlen werden.
Re. Your “simple theft” question, I wouldn’t know the right classification, but I know from the experience there were no questions asked when I sent them the listing with the amounts lost (I even included the lock itself ), just a call to confirm they will sort it out.
Axa btw. if relevant.
I keep my bike dirty. I never wash it. This helps to avoid some people who steal bikes. And a lock which strength is in a certain equlibrium with the value of the bike.
I’ve lived for years in cities where bike theft is rampant and the police couldn’t care less because it isn’t a car (aka North America)
I’ve never had my bike stolen following sheldon brown’s advice: Lock Strategy
Basically, get a kryptonite grey or orange ULock, lock your bike through the rear triangle and the back wheel to something that is solidly attached to the ground or a building and you’re golden. The only thing a thief can take then is your seat (you can use a chain to secure it or anti theft bolts), your front wheel (cheaper than the back wheel to replace but can be secured with a cable). But realistically, they’ll steal the poorly locked bike next to yours I stead because yours will be too much work to steal.
Too bad this bike has only 50 Nm. My bike has 45 Nm and I find it too low. You don’t have enough boost from the start, and too little support when going uphill. Personally, I would choose 90 Nm over 500 W / 45 km. Acceleration is more important than top speed. I think people riding their bikes at 45 km/h are crazy.
Also, my bike has now 9’000 km on the clock, and I had to replace the chain and both cogwheels twice already. This costs 300+ CHF each time. The whole chain system is expected to live for up to 5’000 km. That’s why when I buy the next e-bike, I will consider going for a belt system (german: Riemenantrieb). It’s quieter, needs no maintenance and lasts for up to 30’000 km.
Where do you usually bike? It’s tough to bike that fast or dirt/gravel path. In the city there’s so much traffic that I think it’s very risky to go that fast. I would only feel safe going that fast on a dedicated bike road out of town.
The fastest I went with my bike was downhill on a road that goes to a military area. I went 60 km/h and then I hit the brakes too hard, started sliding off the road, made a salto, landed on the grass. Lucky to be alive, somehow I didn’t even get a bruise.
I commuted by bike all year from the suburbs of Zurich to the city center, so I drive a lot on the street next to the lake (seestrasse).
I drive a eBike more suited for the street that for gravel/dirt, the friction there would slow me down as well
Happy to hear about your lucky moment, I have to admit that I only bike fast when I know the way pretty well, there is indeed not much protection on a bike…
No but I would make sure you can charge it with USB, so that it can be easily charged in a car and used for the last mile. This might reduce the parking-slot pain.
I guess this applies to both e-bikes and scooters: the power tells you the top speed, and torque tells you the acceleration. Typically the 25 km/h bikes have 250 W, and 45 km/h ones have 500 W motor. But… surprisingly, if you remove the speed limiter on the 250 W motor, it will allow you to go faster than 25 km/h. I haven’t studied this in detail, but does it mean that when you unlock the 250 W motor to make more rpm, does it technically get more powerful? Or can you potentially damage such a motor?
the number given is the power it can provide on a continuous basis without overheating or other failure
the highest power output is done during startup from 0 to a certain speed. This is called peak power and is often over that rated power (but you will nearly never find this in any documentation). Often you will however see how often you can start/stop a machine (not the motor alone) in a certain time interval.
-while being at max speed (especially when capped due to regulation), you often do not have the max power output, since you are only counterbalancing the air drag (as well as altitude if not flat terrain). For instance riding position on a bike will have a tremendous effect on the power needed to maintain a certain speed. There is a nice video with a guy lying on a bike still gaining speed downhill while riders in a normal seating position need to pedal to just maintain speed.
However for longevity, you cannot look at the motor itself, but also the whole power transmission (Drive shaft, chain/rubber etc.).
A cycle builder will say : ok, an average cyclist will start/stop the bike so many times, and during normal driving I can expect such a power output. So I need to design the parts in this way to reach 30’000 working hours (or whatever).
So you have to look at the whole machine to see if damage is possible. Personnaly, I would doubt my capacity to do this analysis. (plus of course the risk of insurance refusing all possible refund because of tampering with a safety system)
So what you mean to say is that the 250 / 500 W is not simply what the motor is capable of, but it indicates what the entire bike is designed to handle? I guess this is similar to chip tuning in cars. You can increase the horsepower of your VW Golf, but if it has a weak gearbox, weak brakes, narrow wheels, etc, you risk breaking some parts of your car faster, not necessarily the engine?
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), just a call to confirm they will sort it out.